If you are a skilled enamelist, and wish to extend your
quality beyond that which is possible with the usual techniques used by
people in the trade, then I can not only build you one of these kilns (it
is hand-made, and not cheap-it took over 3 years to design), I can tell
you a few other things not generally known about the ways to manipulate
the material to achieve such results. For instance water purity requirements
and the special "sapphire" type of mortar and pestle needed for
grinding the glass. (You must start with lump form enamel, and it goes "off"
in a matter of minutes, even in ultrapure water). Details like this are
beyond the needs of most enamel workers, whose work would probably appall
you if you examined it under the 10 power binocular microscope I use for
my work. You can't really tell what you are doing without the magnification.
One of the main difficulties facing new entrants into this field is the
trouble you will have in finding proper lead-bearing enamels, which are
no longer made in the US, due to environmental concerns. Lead oxide in the
glass is necessary to give it a high index of refraction, for brilliance
or "fire". "Lead-free" enamels, as are now supplied
by T&T, are completely unsuitable for the finest work, and you must
find a source for lump form European materials, usually supplied in powder
form for hobbyists. Preground enamels are useless for fine work.